The power of the mountains acts like a magnet. Famous passes, amazing turns, breathtaking views and an announcement of tasting local delicacies. It all meant that instead of dreaming, I organized a trip for myself and several motorcyclists to face the road and nature.
I invite you to the first part of my subjective guide to a piece of the Alps.
I like spontaneous trips, but it was a route through 4 countries and over 3000 kilometers of which over 1200 in the mountains. I wanted to be prepare well.
I will describe to you our route, and finally I will share details regarding the planning of accommodation and routes, which I noticed and what I was guided when organizing the trip so that I could get there safely and come back.
Day 1, Saturday, Warsaw – Frymburk (Czech Republic)
It promised to be pleasant, although not necessarily easy. We planned to do the road from Warsaw to Frymburk (820 km) in 12 hours and get till 20:00. At Oleśnica Andrzej in his F800 GS catches a “slipper”. Tomek helps with the exchange of tube. We have a spare tube, but I’m calling and looking for a new one. We don’t yet know how quickly it will be useful. Two BMW showrooms: “We can order. It will be on Friday. “ Awesome, will we pick it up coming back home? After the repair (CO2 cartridges from the tire repair kit came in handy) we go to Wrocław and buy a tube from the tire service.
We are entering the Czech Republic. Motorbikes do not have to have vignettes, so we joyfully run ahead. Just behind Prague it is getting black. At the last moment, we put on a rain clothes and break through the storm, which literally breaks the branches and throws them onto the road.
Time is running out. We won’t arrive at 20:00. I manage to get along with the hotel, make somebody wait for us and give us the keys. At 23:30, after 14 and a half hours drive, we land at the hotel “Vltava”. Empty, dark, but there is somebody waiting for us with the keys. We want to eat something. There is beer but the kitchen is closed. “Maybe you have some chips?” He think for a moment and then disappear and return in about 2-3 minutes, carrying a plate with four buns, 3 slices of cheese and 3 slices of canned ham. One per head? Yes, but the cheese and ham are 1 cm thick! We are saved. We go to sleep exhausted, but filled and “hydrated”.
Day 2, Sunday, Frymburk – Pollenitz (Austria)
In the morning it does not rain or it’s not going to rain. Packed, we go to breakfast. In fact, there is everything you need. Yellow cheese and ham, which we already know, but also scrambled eggs, frankfurters, fruit, cakes, fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, and coffee and tea. Filled up we move … and we stop soon. Again, “slipper” and fun with replacing the inner tube, which probably was damaged when assembled the previous day.
I am modifying the route because of the delay. We enter Austria, stick vignettes and continue south. Today we will sleep in the tiny settlement of Pollenitz, just behind Feldkirchen in Kärnten. On the way, we stop in Trautenfels, where we stop for dinner in the “Fischrestaurant Schloβteichstüberl”.
We get fresh trout straight from the pan. The fish is aromatic and delicious. The crispy crust smells and tastes of garlic and parsley.We eat meal outdoors, enjoying the view of the ponds and the Trautenfels castle towering over the surrounding area. A place worth recommending because of the menu and quality of food and not too high prices. (more information about the restaurant here).
Time to move. Without any adventures, although in the rain, we cross the Turracher-Höhenstarβe. We stop at Turracherhöhe to take some souvenir photos.
At the end of the day shopping for dinner and refueling. At the station, a small surprise – we find two mobile dispensers for mixing fuel and refueling two-strokes.
We end the day by checking in in comfortable rooms at “Gasthoff Wadl”. The guys are lucky – they get rooms with a view of Ossiacher See, 6 km away, which we will pass tomorrow, going to San Daniele del Friuli.
We celebrate the end of the day, looking at the lake and indulging in local cheese, matured bacon and dried ham. It is beautiful and delicious.
Day 3, Monday, Pollenitz – San Daniele del Friuli (Italy)
We are greeted by beautiful sunny weather. Shoes, clothes and “anti-rains” are dry. We pack and go to breakfast. Memories of yesterday evening float in the air – here you can smoke in the place, and there are ashtrays on the tables. The whole area is 5 houses and probably everyone knows each other and spend a lot of time together.
Breakfast is only for us. Freshly brewed coffee, fruit, flakes, local meats (salami, mortadella, meats and even pate!) And soft-boiled eggs: not only perfectly prepared with solid egg white and liquid yolk, served with a smile. We start the day great.
It’s getting warmer. Before the border with Slovenia we stop at the “Bunkermuseum” (http://www.bunkermuseum.at/ ).
This is an interesting place where the Austrian army was stationed during the “Cold War”, whose mission was to protect the border pass against the communist attack from Yugoslavia. Today there is an exhibition of other fortifications and military equipment collected by the museum owner. Unfortunately, museums are also closed on Mondays in Austria. So we just take a look through the fence and head to Slovenia. We cross Wurzenpass and head for route 206.
When we see the peaks of Golićica and Prisojnik, we stop at a small inn at the foot of the mountains for coffee, strudel and pancakes. After a short rest, we move on.
Beautiful views and lots of turns all the way to the Trenta. New asphalt in places, but setts on turns. We try to see the Triglav peak somewhere in the distance, and right next to the road a swift stream rolls its waters of Socha. We stand for rest, throw off clothes and plunge into the mountain river. Icy, crystal clear water is refreshing and delicious. A great break to catch your breath and watch canoeists during training.
Time and speeding life slowed down for several minutes. One would like to stay for longer. Because Nockalmstraβe fell out of the plan, we have time to drive up to Mangart. We turn onto road 902 and after about 2 km we stop to pay 5 € “per head” to be able to go further, to the top. First, the road through the forest, a lot of turns, we pass next tunnels, the tops of the mountains are getting closer to us. Finally, the space opens up before us and we reach the parking lot next to the “Mangart’s Cave”. Further on, the road is blocked by a snowdrift almost 2 meters high.
Lots of snow around, although it’s already the second half of June. We have a beautiful panorama of mountains ahead of us. The views are breathtaking. We take dozens of photos, like a little bit crazy guys, but we are not the only ones. We have great moods.
We are calmly going down to Italy. Not wanting to leave the mountains yet, we are taking the SP76 road from Lago di Predeli to the west. Turns, beautiful views and the Torrente Raccolana River below. At Chiusaforte, we run into the SS13, which runs parallel to the A23 motorway. The weather spoils us all day, only at the entrance to San Daniele del Friuli catches a short and intense rain. Although we don’t wear raincoats, we are drying up on the way. Today we spend the night in the hotel “Relais Picaron”. The rooms are comfortable although small. We leave our luggage and refreshed, we go to the FLAME restaurant “glued” to the hotel. The modern interior looks inviting. The menu does not overwhelm the length, and yet we have a lot to choose from: starters, pizzas, steaks, pork, lamb, burgers, vege dishes. For those thirsty there are craft beers and wine.
Tom orders the MEAT STEAK pizza with beef Colita de Cuadril, Andrzej steak with mashed potatoes.
I choose the NAPOLI-SAN DANIELE “ANDATA E RITORNO” pizza (“Round trip”).
I was encouraged by the ingredients: prosciutto crudo from San Daniele area, cream, straciatella cheese and fresh, young rocket salad. All dishes were very tasty, fresh and appetizing. I’d love to repeat my pizza 🙂
Where we were and what we saw you will read soon in part 2.